Brows & Makeup Newsletter January 2008 - 6 Simple Steps To A Flawless Complexion

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	Tips & Tricks Series

"Before applying any colour, I always create a fresh canvas - a flawless finish. Making your skin look perfect is the first and most important thing you can to achive a truly great look "

- Laura Mercier (Makeup Artist)

6 SIMPLE STEPS TO A FLAWLESS COMPLEXION

I firmly believe that everyone, no matter what their skin type, can have a gorgeous complexion. It is simply a matter of knowing what complexion products to use and how to apply them. In my experience, nothing scares a woman more about makeup than the f-word("foundation"): if you get wrong, you can get it very, very wrong. Ageing, cakey, unnatural,uneven-the list continues.

Hopefully this newsletter will demystify the image of airbrushed perfection that bombards you on a daily basis. The bottom line is that foundation is not mandatory, but optional. Be daring this season: go foundation-free on days when your skin looks healthy and glowing.

Enjoy, and remember, the f-word doesn't always have to be a dirty word.

Love Lien

STEP 1: SKINCARE

Preparing your skin with a complementing skin-care routine is vital to achieve an even application. It helps to hydrate and smooth the skin.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

If your skin is in good condition, foundation will blend more smoothly. The key to having an even application is to ensure that your skin is clean, exfoliated and well hydrated (yes, drink plenty of water).
Use a sunscreen after moisturiser if it's not included in your foundation for sun protection.

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturiser
SPF15 (for all skin - types )

Dermalogica Intensive Eye Cream

Darphin Hydra Rich (Hydrating)

STEP 2: FOUNDATION PRIMER

One of the most undiscovered complexion products and yet one of the most essential. A foundation primer's is a light-weight, transparent serum-like gel that seals in your moisturiser and set foundation for a long-lasting finish by smoothing line and evening texture. In short, it provides a barrier between your skin's oils and your makeup.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

Apply your primer like you would with your moisturiser.
Use a light-reflecting primer if you want to reduce the appearance of fine lines.
For oiler skin, use an oil-free primer or a mattifying lotion to reduce the shine and keep your makeup intact instead of sliding around your face.
You may use a hydrating primer alone without foundation to increase skin's brightness, lustre and texture.
For a smoother looking neck, use a silicone-based makeup primer to minimise any lines on the neck. Try Laura Mercier Hydrating Primer.

Laura Mercier Hydrating
Foundation Primer

Napoleon Perdis Auto Pilot Pre-
Foundation Skin Primer

Clarins Beauty Flash Balm

STEP 3: UNDER - EYE CONCEALER

It is crucial to master the use of concealing; when done correctly, you can craftily (and easily!) conceal discoloration and dark circles instantly. Hint: A creamy texture is perfect for delicate eye area.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

The right shade is usually one or two shade lighter than your skin tone. Exception to the rule is when you desire to reduce puffiness, try a darker-tone concealer to recede the puffiness.
Brush on with a concealer brush to areas of darkness (dark circles and/ or dark eyelids). Blend out with your ring finger for a smooth finish. Make sure you set eyelids with powder in preparation for eye makeup.
To dilute a pigmented (opaque) concealer, mix a little bit of eyecream to the concealer for a sheer coverage.
Alternatively, you can use a cream foundation (one or two shades lighter than your skin tone) as an under-eye concealer. Its creamy texture will not settle into fine lines like the way some concealers can.
Use warm beige-tone if your under-eye area is blue or purple, or try pinkish beige-tone if your under-eye is yellow or brown.

Yves Saint Laurent Touche Eclat

MAC Select Cover-Up

Laura Mercier Secret Concealer

Stila #2 Undereye Concealer Brush

Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Brush

STEP 4: FOUNDATION

Many women think foundation is meant to cover skin imperfections, so they tend to cake it on, often making the original problems worse. Always remember that foundations (aka based) only purpose is to even out your skin tone.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

Swipe three shades (closest to your skin tone) near your jawline. The perfect shade will blend seamless on your skin.
Apply your foundation with a synthetic foundation brush for precise and flawless application.
Start your application from the centre of your face outwards. Chances are, you will only need to even out the redness from your nose, cheeks and chin.
For mature skin, always use a cream-based foundation that contains light reflecting properties for a smooth and emollient finish.
Use warm beige-tone if your under-eye area is blue or purple, or try pinkish beige-tone if your under-eye is yellow or brown.

BECCA Luminous Skin Color SPF 20 (Hydrating, Sheer Coverage)

Chanel Pro Luminere SPF 15 (Semi-matte, Medium Coverage)

Stila #8 Perfecting Foundation Brush

Giorgio Armani Designer Shaping Cream Foundation SPF 20 (Hydrating, Medium To Full Coverage)

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation (Semi-Matte, Light To Medium Coverage)

Cheater's Guide

Foundation lingo

Moisturising or Moisture-rick

Liquid foundations with moisturising properties usually promise a "satin or dewy" finish give skin a subtle glow. Will keep dry skin from becoming flaky by the end of the day but unfortunately will also make oily complexions look (and feel) even slicker. Avoid using this option if you have oily or problematic skin.

Oil-free or Mattifying

Comes in liquid, powders or sticks. If your skin is extremely shiny, you may need one containing oil-absorbing powders to give your skin a matte finish.

Long-lasting or Long-wearing

Intensely pigmented, oil-free formula designed to adhere to the skin. This is true for a face concealer that camouflages most skin imperfections such as pigmentation and scars.

Illuminating, Line Minimising or Radiant

Contains shimmer particles or light reflective properties to reflect light from wrinkles hence minimising the appearance of fine lines. Caution! It will also reflect light onto blemishes-skip if your skin isn't clear.

Cream to Powder, Powder Foundation, or Balance

Dries to powdery finish that's ideal for combination and oily skin; some products are pigmented meaning dries semi-matte.

Tint

The product is definitely sheer coverage with a dewy finish. The downside is that it will probably fade fast.

STEP 5: (OPTIONAL) FACE CONCEALER

Another word for face concealer is camouflage. It is highly pigmented (meaning it's oil-free with strong coverage), so it is perfect to cover up skin imperfections such as pimples, broken capillaries, pigmentation and scars. It is more pigmented than concealer and less emollient so it won't slide around.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

For small areas and spots, use a small or point concealer brush for precise placement of the product.
Put some camouflage on the back of your hand and move it around with your brush toward the product for easy application.
Always select skin-matching shade for a natural and undetected finish.
Use the layering system, that is, apply a layer at a time until to achieve your desired coverage.

BECCA compact concealer

Laura Mercier Secret Concealer

Stila #11 Face Concealer Brush

STEP 6: POWDER

Many women think powder is terribly outdated. But when applied properly, it's perfect for setting your complexion products, creating a smooth and even canvas for blush and eyeshadow and giving the skin a lustrous finish.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

1. Best applied with a flat powder brush for an even finish - always apply in a downward motion along your facial hairs. This technique prevents the powder on your face looking blotchy.
If you have normal to fry skin and desire the dewy look, skip the powder. For combination skin, tame the shine by setting powder on your T-zone.

Stila Illuminating Powder Foundation

BECCA Fine Pressed Powder

Stila Sheer Pressed Powder

Stila #8 Powder Brush

THE GREAT POWDER DEBATE: COLOURED VS. TRANSLUCENT

Translucent powder is a pigment-free powder, usually white colour that can be used on any skin tone because it literally disappears once applied. It comes in the form of pressed or loose.

Coloured powder is a pigment powder, usually a yellow-toned powder. Best to choose a colour that matches your skin tone. It also comes in the form of pressed or loose.

There are different schools of thoughts on this topic; however, you should make your own personal conclusion by testing them at the makeup counters.

But here's what beauty experts have to say:

Why translucent powder is better

Laura Mercier (International Makeup Artist) is a firm believer in using loose translucent powder on all skin tones.

"Translucent powder isn't meant to erase every bit of glow from your face. True translucent powder should not turn ashy on darker skin tones".

Linda Wells (Editor of ALLURE) states that powder is about texture not colour.

"Rather than choosing a shade that matches or enhance your skin colour, it's best to go with a truly translucent formula, which means it has a little pigment as possible".

Why coloured powder is better

Bobbi Brown (International Makeup Artist) is adamant that translucent powder is not the way to go.

"My powder philosophy is one of the things that define me as a makeup artist. I believe that the most magical, universal, and workable powder for all skin colours is pale yellow in tone. Yellow-toned powders have a magical effect on the face. Translucent powders are not translucent at all. They create a chalky pale effect that is quite visible".

Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder (Translucent)

Stila Sheer Pressed Powder (Coloured)

THE BEAUTY OF POWDER

Loose Powder	Loose/ Pressed Powder	Pressed Powder
Lightweight, sheer and silky Allows the skin's natural oil to lightly shine through Stay-at-home powder	Both can be applied on bare skin as a sheer base or on top of foundation of a soft air-brushed look Both smoothes and evens the skin Both blot shine to prolong your makeup Both can be oil-free formula – ideal for an oily or acne-prone skin Both can be pigmented (with coverage and coloured) or translucent (minimal coverage, on all skin tones)	Easy to use, mess free and portable – perfect for touch-ups It provides a heavier, more matte finish than loose

WHEN TO STAY AWAY FROM POWDER ALL TOGETHER

Skip powder altogether on days when you are really sweaty – It is guaranteed to cake on your face. Powder-free blotting paper is a sure to mattifying your face.
When your skin is super dehydrated and flaky, powder will look totally caked on – an instant age-accelerator!
If you have a tan, chances are that powder will make your skin look grey and ashy.
Stay away from powder if you have blonde facial hair – powder will highlight every strand; you are better off with a matte-finish foundation.

RULES FOR TOUCH-UPS

FOR CLEAR OR MATURE SKIN:
- Touch ups are not necessary as shine is not an issue. This skin-type looks best with dewy finish.
FOR COMBINATON OR OILY SKIN:
- Reapplying is essential if you desire a flawless complexion. Whilst it is quick and easy to use sponge from your pressed powder or foundation powder, I highly recommend that you blot out excess shine from your T-zone using a blotting paper before brushing on your powder. This way your skin will look fresh and cake-free.
FOR WORK:
- If the air-conditioning at work is playing havoc to your skin then ensure that your skincare regimen combats dehydration and it also helps to use emollient-based foundation boost skin's moisture. However, be sure to mattify your T-zone if you experience shine through the day.
FROM THE OFFICE TO A COCKTAIL PARTY:
- I would definitely advise women to redo their under-eye concealer. First, start by wiping away any smudged concealer or eyeshadow underneath the eyes with an instant eye makeup wipes, and then re-apply their concealer for a bright eye look. The fastest way to mattify your skin is using a blotting paper, no need to reapply a powder if you don't need to.
YOUR WEDDING DAY (OR YOUR BEST FRIEND'S):
- Maintaining your flawless complexion has never been so important than in this day so touch-ups are a must. Make sure you pack your makeup essentials to re-apply after touching up your complexion. For an instant booster, use YSL Touche Eclat underneath your eyes to disguise any darkness.

PROS VS CONS: FOUDATION IN A CAN

PROS

Long-lasting
Lightweight base
Semi-matte to matte-airbrushed finish
Ideal for clear or innovative skin
Sleek and innovative packaging

CONS

Relatively expensive
May enhance flakiness on dry skin and enhance facial lines with mature skin
Not flattering on oily skin-often looks greasy Limited colour range
Takes (a lot!) of practice to get it perfect
Must be sprayed over the whole face for an even application-touch-ups aren't really an option.

Product In Focus: SK II Air Touch Foundation

MY VERDICT

The novelty wore off fairly quickly: my skin looked dehydrated and mask-line, and felt really tight and dry. Using a vaporiser foundation may be great to use on a photoshoot but I wouldn't recommend it as a part of any daily routine.

THE LOW-DOWN ON MINERAL FOUDATION

Mineral Foundations are also becoming increasingly more available. Ideal for those with allergies, or those with problem skin, this low-irritant, natural solution seem a Godsend. That is, until it is put through its paces.

Most Mineral Foundations are a concealer, foundation and powder in one. If you are going to opt for a Mineral Foundation, go for one that is not diluted with cheap fillers and harsh chemicals. Be sure to choose a foundation in which the pigments are very dense and pure, meaning only a very small amount of product is required to achieve coverage-your product lasts longer, making it better value for money. The better mineral foundations are gentle enough to use after cosmetic and facial procedures and also offer natural, inbuilt sun protection and are naturally water resistant so you needn't worry about your foundation moving if you perspire.

Despite these advantages, the coverage can often appear cakey and blotched, even after practiced application-if you specifically bought this to cover blemishes, then this often exaggerates the problems rather that concealing it.

The powder application is high maintenance, doesn't travel well, and is a nightmare should you get it anywhere near water, or not cap the lid correctly. This is a strictly leave-at-home affair.

My tip? If you have extremely sensitive skin, and are bold enough to go foundation free, opt to enhance your eyes or lips instead.